22 March 2024: A rare visit from the Central Coast master, Jason and Roman managed some time climbing together in between a few smokes, talking about negative gearing, investment portfolios, superfunds and retirement plans for the filthy rich. It started with usual morning sprinkles till the fog lifted and revealed a picture perfect bluebird ski. It had been a while since we have climbed together a the central coast so we opted for some warm-ups at Jimmy Cliff and then explore the hidden craglets littered around the Porter’s Pass trail.
The usual warmups at Jimmy Cliff included: Mr Scumbag (18*) which despite its low grade features “the single hardest move on the entire wall.” So much for grading! After a few more laps it was time to try the not very often repeated Red Sleigh Down 22*** , which is a little hidden near the waterfall in the jungle. The belay is in the middle of a stream with muddy banks and the initial mantle does not see many repeats these days in comparison to the rest of the popular crag. However this is an excellent line with a sustained crux rooflet and is well worth the effort.
I was feeling a little adventurous and wanted to check out some of the more unusual lines that are to be found in the labyrinth of buttresses.
Nick Cave
Capsaicin 22*** is one of those rare lines, and I finally worked out what the route is that you always walk past when you go to Sharon Stone. It is literally right where the path drops down to Porters Pass. A stunningingly exposed line with two main bulges with the second being the crux mantle. Followed by a delicate traverse to the high arete and finish up on jugs. Magnificent and worth every star. Mental note for Lamppost Licker 23*, about 10 metres to the left from here with mega jugs on a very steep wall with a final move crux. Next time for sure.
Rock Hudson
I have walked underneath this line a 100 times always wondering what the steepness would feel like. It was time to find out. Geek Heathen 23*** mega steep on jugs, this deserves a lot more attention. Once a again a sandy dirty start gets you to a huge ledge with the first ringbold (or you can just walk in from the left). Plenty of rest along the way to recover but only if you love steep jug hauls. Spicy finish near the anchor, but a deep hidden slot just to the left of the chain takes care of that. One of my favourite lines here in the jungle and there is a 25 variation (Geek Salad) just to the left.
The afternoon was almost taken care of by the time we finished and shadows were getting longer in the deep gulleys, but once we emerged from the bowls of the gorge the sun was strong and the vistas immaculate from Lamberts lookout. A few quick photos and it was time for our Friday special at the Gardener’s Inn. Already looking forward to the next trip….. |
